Day 9 Changing the world one piece of cornbread at a time

Our second day in Nashville began with a hunt for an Americano and a laundrymat. . .yes it was time to wash the jeans (and see if they still fit! LOL) we also wanted to find a little spot we read about in the guide book, but of course when we almost found it we realised we were too early, it didn't open till 10:30.  DUH!  It was very cool to explore the neighbourhood by Vanderbilt University though and it was packed with students and there were cute little shops and such all around.  The weather, after yesterday's tornado like winds was COLD, the first time I had to use my coat and jacket all trip!  About 5 degrees!  We did find a bustling little spot called FIDO that was full of students.  They took your order and you paid at the front counter then you got a little dog plaque for them to come and find you to give you your meal.  Each plaque was different and it was a customers dog and their story, why they were the best dog etc.  Super cute!  The food was delicious and simple and some of the people were SUPER interesting. . .the guys that sat down after us were wearing berets, had their shirts unbuttoned to almost their waists and moustaches and hairy chests. .  very 70's and hilarious. . wish I had snuck a photo!

Fido id

Fido, worth a visit if in Nashville

 We then spent an hour doing some laundry at a local student place and it was nice to be near the dryer on such a cold day!  The humidity in the air makes the cold feel colder than it really is!  We then got out the guidebook to hit a local landmark, Swett's.  Swett's is a Southern restaurant started in 1954 and was the first minority owned restaurant in the city!  A complete success story, Swett's now owns the market, gas station and land around it.  The wall are adorned with celebrity photos and well wishes.  After seeing the National Civil Rights Museum (see blog day 10) we can really appreciate how difficult this was to do for a black southern family in 1954.

 What you do is hit up the cafeteria line with your tray and the usual is to pick "a meat and three or a meat and two."  ("veggies.")  Southern "veggies" tend to all be cooked with some sort of pork and include: collard greens, turnip greens, mashed potatoes, white beans, green beans, and mac n cheese (veggie?)  The meat choices were fried chicken, beef tips in brown gravy, breaded pork chops, whole catfish, pulled pork etc.  You then get to choose yeast rolls, corn bread, or fried corn bread. . . .This is soul food and yes it was delicious but not good for your waistline, even if it is disguised as a "veggie."

"Changing the world, one piece of cornbread at a time"

 The server was super fun and did a little pose for me!  I guess I am not the only paparazzi that shows up to Swett's!

turnip greens, mac n cheese, beef tips, cornbread, peach cobbler, and ice tea

pulled pork, greens, white beans, bbq sauce, and chow chow: relish to eat with the pork

white bean "veggie" dish. . . see that big chunk of bacon?  No wonder these people eat up all their veggies!!

We then figured we'd see the Parthenon, a full scale replica of the Parthenon in Greece!  It was first built in 1897 for a world exposition of plaster and then re-constructed in permanent materials in 1921.  There is a 42 foot statue of Athena inside!  Hmmmm a little weird but I guess Nashville was considered the Athens of the South because of its history of pushing higher classical education back in the 1800's.

Athena. . . covered in gold leaf: one of the FAQ: Why is she so gaudy? Answer: The artist figured that's what she looked like.

We then headed out to Murfreesboro, Tennessee to meet James' Uncle Alan who he hadn't seen in 25 years.  It was great to have a beer and head for dinner to a local Italian chain Demo's.  James also got to see and hear a little more family history.  Check out the photo below of James's grandparents and Great Uncle and Aunt.  He had never seen this picture!

James and Uncle Alan and a Liverpool train

James' Granddad who died in WWII (center) and his Grandma (center) on their wedding day.  James now wears the ring his Granddad William Cuff wore on this day.  Super cool to learn the history!

Day 8 into the rainy mountains

Green Sage in Asheville, organic lovers dream

A rainy Day 8 began in Asheville, NC with coffee from the Green Sage, a organic lovers dream: would you like soy, rice, or almond milk?  Organic regular milk?  Stevia or organic agave syrup in your coffee?  Organic sugar?  Recycled cups, only sustainable local food from the Appalachian Mountain region . . . .etc etc.  These guys practice what they preach and organic and local is the way they operate.  The locals seem to love it too and the place is constantly packed.  And yes that locally roasted, fair trade, shade grown organic coffee was just delightful. .. . LOL

 The rain just kept coming down as we made our way to Knoxville, Tennessee on our way to Nashville.  Our road food book heartily recommended Litton's as the place to eat in Knoxville and we arrived right at lunchtime for this favourite hamburger joint.  The place is huge but that doesn't mean you don't have to wait, write you name on the board and then take a seat in benches that were so uncomfortable they must have been recycled from church pews!

get on the list!

James went for the "thunderroad" with pimento cheese and fried onions, I went traditional with a cheeseburger

 Yes it was worth the few minute wait!  Delicious burgers served medium, hand cut fries and ice tea till you can't drink anymore.  This places reputation is correct and there is a reason it has been in business for over 40 years!  They are also famous for their homemade deserts which I had to take to go as there was no more room when we finished the meal!

Red Velvet cake for the road and I never did get through it!

 The roads continued to be crap, this is the first bad weather we have had since the beginning of the trip so we really can't complain.  We did take a detour in Lebanon, TN about an hour outside Nashville to stop at the outlet mall and we were glad we did!  Coach had an extra 30% off the already reduced price and I got a purse, sunglasses, and gloves for $200!  The clerk pointed out I saved $700!  LOVE IT!  We also got a mega deal at Guess for James: 4 woven shirts and a jacket for $80 . . . they also had scratch and save and I scored with a 30% off extra card!  Being in the business it is hard for me to pay for anything above wholesale but these prices were well below my cost and worth it!  James had mentioned earlier in the day that he loves the fact that I can get in a car and just drive and explore with him. . . well it balances out as I love the fact that he'll shop outlets with me!  LOL.

 We came into Nashville about 4:30 and hit rush hour but it wasn't too bad, the first view was the AT&T building which my guidebook says the locals call the "batman" building. . I get it!!  I had been able to read most of the guidebook on the drive (James was driving of course) and we were excited to check out some of the local blues and bluegrass and honky tonk's we had read about.

 Dinner had to come first, I just couldn't sit in another smokey bbq, so we headed to Joe's Crab Shack. . . OOPS we broke our no chain rule. . . BUT we didn't know it was a chain before we went so. . . I going to have to let us off the hook!  I went for the crab legs of course but since I don't eat crab hardly ever I really wasn't prepared for how much work it really is to get the meat out of the crab.  I mean I wore the bib and everything. . . and that didn't even work as I found crab down my shirt later. .. James had a good laugh over the whole thing as he smartly chose a salad you can eat with a simple knife and fork!  I was having a really tough time getting to that crab until James put the tools I had at my disposal into fashion terms I could understand. .. "Meg, the yellow thing is like a seam ripper, slide up the leg to get at the meat" . . . OHHH  I get it now, it went much faster after that!

the "seam ripper" tool once I knew how to use it made the whole eating process much faster!

Batman building a night

Artistic shot of PBR and the band

 We then headed to Layla's Bluegrass Hillbilly and country Inn on Broadway where our new favourite entertainers "Slim Chance and the Can't Hardly Playboys" were rocking the stage with bluegrass and rockabilly hits as well as a few of their own like "Hillbilly Psycho Blues."  It is tradition at this place on Broadway that the bands play for tips only as there is no cover and after figuring out which tip jars were for the bartender and which for the band, we made sure to show our love for this super energetic group.  The band is a combination of bands it seems, with one member, the upright bass play, plays with Hank Williams the Third as well and others also a part of "The Howling Brothers."  They took requests from the crow and loved "requests" with $ attached!  LOL.  The bar filled up after the Nashville Predators game got out and the Chicago fans loved the band too.  They were of course also happy with their win!  Just like Calgary, Chicago fans can see a game cheaper here and they do when in town.

We ended our night at Layla's and it was good we stayed in one place. . high high winds and torrential rain storms had everyone and the news all talking about tornadoes. . . WHAT in February??  Well, with the great music we couldn't even tell and despite the fact that we got soaked getting back to our car the night was well worth it!  We had a blast and since we didn't know anyone. . . James even danced! 

Slim Chance and the Can't Hardly Playboys:  BUT they can play!! Check them out online!

Upright bassist, also a part of the Hank Williams III band

Day 7 Smokey Mountains and Luella BBQ

Day 7 started in Greenville, South Carolina, home to some of the nicest people we have met.  What are they putting in the water there?  Happy juice?  We started with coffee at Liquid Highway on Main and they suggested that we hit Mary Beth's for a great breakfast, and they were right!  James got eggs, cornbeef hash, hashbrowns and toast and tried a new hot sauce "texas pete" that we stopped after breakfast to pick up at the local grocery.  And I tried lemon curd and ricotta pancakes and a few eggs.  (I have to remember that I like "over medium" in the USA, just the yolks runny, otherwise I get runny whites. . . eeew)  It was delicious once I got the eggs cooked a little more and we then headed out of town on our way to Asheville, North Carolina checking out some of the Greenville neighbourhoods on the way out of town. 

 We took the scenic route as usual and ended up climbing mountains for an hour in the car on crazy switchback type ski roads that had potholes bigger than Montreal!  We know now why they want to keep us on the Interstate!  We ended at the top, a National park called Caesar's head with smokey views through brushy trees and interesting houses that have been in the park since the 1800's and have grandfathered rights there.

 After we entered North Carolina we stopped for a coffee and little snack and to steal internet in Brevard, NC in Transylvania County.  Cute small town of about 5000 but not much going on. . . although the local knitting club was meeting at the coffee shop we were at. . .LOL

 More hilly roads and forests on our way to Asheville and as we got in we noticed how lovely the city was, older buildings and a fairly dense and interesting downtown with a really conscious mindset.  We noticed all the buy local signs on every local business and the community really does stick together and support its own.  It does have a bit of a hippie feel as we had been warned but there was only a few places were the incense was over powering and we of course chose not to partake in the tofu/vegan special and the local pub.

pretty buildings everywhere in Asheville

Buy local campaign everywhere in Asheville

more local "pork art"

We of course headed right for the local favourite BBQ spot that uses local and organic meat (told  you it was a little hippie, but we loved this part of it!) and there was absolutely no tofu on this menu!   A little more "upscale" than some of the BBQ we have eaten, Luella's had a full bar, music on the weekends and a much more complete menu than we had seen up till now at a BBQ joint.   I tried their dirty bloody Mary with olive juice, nice, and James had a local beer.  (Asheville is also called Beertown USA as there are 17 microbreweries in town with great beer.)   I ordered a salad to try and eat some veggies with my meat but the veggies were probably canceled out by the deep fried okra (not bad), hushpuppies, cheese, brisket and smoked turkey. . . and that was on the salad!  We "hooked it up with more cowbell" with a 2 meat plate of pulled pork, brisket, collard greens, vinegar slaw, and hush puppies.  Luella's had the best pulled and chopped pork we had tried so far and the brisket was delicious with side sauces all homemade in "Carolina style" their scooter vinegar sauce was the perfect compliment to the pork and their "hot flash" bbq sauce was so good we wanted to take home a mason jar of it.  We'd highly recommend Luella's to anyone visiting Asheville!

Off to Tennessee tomorrow and more BBQ and hopefully some Memphis blues!

that's organic local pork!

"more cowbell"

our "salad" and amazing "more cowbell" plate

in home made sauces: yummy

pig artwork: we have seen a lot of cartoon smiling pigs on this trip!

BBQ, yes please!

Day 6 boiled peanuts and restaurants that have lasted over 60 years

boiled peanuts

We checked out of our Atlanta hotel to head to Greenville, South Carolina and find some bbq along the way.  The day started with more eggs and grits near where we were staying, I tried them again. . . Not my favourite to say, they pretty much take on the flavour of whatever you put on them.  But I am trying to be Southern on this trip.. . Although I have not yet said y’all without doing it to make fun.  We then headed into the Virginia Highlands neighbourhood we had missed the day before, we of course then figured out that it was less than a mile from where we were yesterday. . . Geez. . . Lesson. . Do your research!  Virginia Highlands was again a small little hood starting at the corner of Ponce De Leon and Highland Ave with cute bars, restaurants and boutiques (although the price point here was much much higher than little five points.)  We sat down to steal the internet at Aktins Pub at some cute outdoor tables and ended up ordering my new favourite drink, unsweetened ice tea with lemonade (James says this is called an Arnold Palmer) and some boiled peanuts.  They are surprisingly good!  They are boiled in salt water and your kind of suck them out like edamame.  I’d eat them again for sure.  Great pub food!

We then headed out to Southern Atlanta to find “Harold’s Bbq” a legend that has been open since 1947   in the same location.  Obviously a working class neighbourhood 60 years ago, it now is the home to the Atlanta Federal Penitentiary and there are bars all over the window and the hood is just sketchy over all.  BUT yes it was worth the trip and the triple checking the car was locked to get that famous Brunswick stew (loaded stew with pork, tomato and corn: delicious) with our sliced pork and cornbread on what seemed to be prison issue divided plates.  And it was packed with lunch goers alike.  We left smelling like we’d been sitting around a campfire and satisfied from the food.  And this was fast food too, we sat down and ate and were out of there in less than 20 minutes.  Why would people eat McDonalds when they can eat this?? 

Harold's bbq with bars on the windows

the interior grill for toasting bread and warming up the bbq'd pork

Brunswick stew, cornbread, slaw, and sliced pork right of the leg in front of us

 

 

Scuppernong Cider, a local drink

how you boil peanuts

After gassing up the car, we hopped onto the interstate to quickly veer off to the back highways on our way to Greenville, South Carolina.  The scenery began to change, rolling hills, lovely forest, lakes and rivers.  We passed the Wrigley Factory and the smell of spearmint stayed with us for miles!  On the back roads you get to see all sorts of things and we stopped at Jaemor farms, where they had a farmers market with all sorts of local produce and products as well as supplies for farmers, feed for chickens, trees for sale and a pork BBQ.  The locals got us to buy some local preserves and candied jalapenos as well as some local peanuts to eat along the way.  I also bought some Scuppernong Cider, just because. . What the &(#* is that??  Turns out to be a grape type fruit, I would say it’s an acquired taste but it was worth the $1.99 for all the laughs I got our of trying to say that word!  Loved the accents and we got a good look at how those boiled peanuts work, apparently it takes hours!

Jaemor farms, farmers market

Jaemor Farms BBQ, we have seen a lot of cartoon pigs on signs on this trip!

 The small highway took us through Toccoa, GA where rooms rent for $80 per week and there is not much going on to say the least.  The churches were the places that showed they had the most money, those buildings were super structures where the banks looked run down and scary.  I can see why the south puts so much money into the churches, they look better than the banks where they should be putting their money!  We then passed into South Carolina, according to the sign full of “smiling faces and beautiful places” and it really has been true so far.  We next passed trough Clemson, SC,  home of the  Clemson University Tigers, a small town that becomes a big one for 8 months a year when the students are in town or when 80,000 people come to see the college football games.  The stadium looks crazy and kicks McMahon stadium’s butt!

Keowee lake on the way to South Carolina

Massive church that looks like an arena for concerts!

We rolled into Greenville and we were so impressed with how pretty it is!  The downtown began its revitalization in the 70’s with a forceful mayor and it really has been kept up.  Downtown parking is free in this 100,000 + person town and Main Street has a big river park in the center with waterfalls and a gorgeous park area.  Locals and plaques told us that the history of the town that began with a textile industry in the late 1700 and now houses all sorts of head offices for modern companies.  This town really is about the quality of life and it is obvious from the pride these people have in their town and its beauty.  Everyone is super nice and friendly.  There are tons of hotels, and unique restaurants, boutiques, and stores for all price ranges for all to enjoy.

The heart of Downtown Greenville, Sc

more downtown Greenville

the original sign says "Drink coca-cola the ideal brain tonic"

For dinner we decided to try the oldest steak house in town, Charlie’s.  Founded in 1921!  It has been in its current  location since 1930 and I think that they haven’t renovated it since then!  It is a true old school steak house, no fancy waiters, just pro servers, that have probably been there 40 + years and the grand daughter running this multi-generational business.  The menu hasn’t changed much, except the prices, there was a menu on the wall from the 1940’s where a filet mignon was $3.25!  We shared a ribeye served on metal hotplates, had baked potatoes and mushrooms and a Greek salad with an interesting  twist, anchovies.  (James liked the addition, I didn’t! Lol)  I also took a piece of their baked home made cheese cake to go as I was stuffed at the end of the meal, I have since eaten it and it is amazing!!

Charlie's est 1921

original menu from the 1940's, fillet mignon $3.25

that is half a steak on a hot metal plate

Our day today was lovely, seeing and feeling a lot of authentic Southern charm and eating delicious food.  Can’t wait to see Asheville, North Carolina tomorrow.  We have been told that all the hippies live there. . . Lol. . . Sounds like Nelson, BC.